Tires Have Evolved
Really a great deal in fact since their first debut by a hairy-armed loin cloth wearing caveman, where, from a rock-carved prototype, we now have sophisticated bicycle tires that don’t puncture on the most demanding trails, some that come studded, chain-wrapped or even those in development that are able to inflate themselves.
Caveman say urggg-WHOA!
But… even though we (those residing under the spell we call Minnesotan Winter Mother Nature) can attest to the cycling conditions in the winter months, until a wheel is created that can shoot flames and is able to melt ice, snow or whatever sass Minnesotan Winter Mother Nature throws at us in the upcoming months, wheel technology is basically- schmeal technology.
Below you’ll uncover a couple of suggestions on how to outfit your road bike wheels in the winter months that will not only keep you riding safer and longer, but will keep you going right up until FedEx drops off your Flame Thrower 3,000′s.
(Don’t hold your breath… it’s 2011 and we still don’t have a reliable hover car)
Winter Tires
Snow, slush and ice. The big 3 can, and commonly do, plague the ground in the winter months, which demands that your grip to the “natural” ground is one of the most critical things that you focus on to get your road bike tires winter-ready.
Don’t have mountain bike tires?
Contemplate them due to their thickness and ability to cut through snow, sand and grit considerably better than other tires. If you don’t typically use them, find an inexpensive pair you can pop in and out before you tackle winter riding.
Skinnier tires…
Like the 700X28 range, actually work rather well cutting through the first layer of snow and slush to reach the ground by concentrating your weight in a smaller area to help your traction. This option may take some time getting use to, so don’t jump into it.
Regardless of the tires you’re using, try both and test what you feel more comfortable riding. Regardless, somewhat reduce the pressure to make them deflate out ever so slightly to have superior surface traction (between 95 – 100psi should feel correct).
Add a Stud or 1,000
If you’re going to be battling quite adverse conditions you can opt for tires that are studded and created for both road and mountain wheels that work just like studded tires on a car and will make riding through icy roads feel a little more safer.
Go Fenders
Unless of course you’ve got a breed of tires that rivals the flame thrower 3,000 mentioned above, your tires are 100% going to throw up all the muck on the ground beneath you in the winter months.
Fitting your bike with fenders will not only shield you from being splashed with cold debris that will reduce your body heat and slow down your performance, they can also impair your vision and do significant damage to your bike.
Your rear fenders should be fitted to be full length or have the ability to angle up, while the front ought to reach a couple of inches in front of and behind your bike’s fork.